Fabric and method of making same



Patented Aug. 16, 1938 urrso PATEN FABRIC AND METHOD OF MAKING SAME tionof Delaware No Drawing. Original application August 1, 1934,

Serial No. 737,933. Divided and this application February 2, 1935,Serial No. 4,673. Re-

newed May 6, 1938 6 Claims.

This application is a division of my U. S. application S. No. 737,933filed August 1, 1934.

This invention relates to the preparation of stiffened fabrics and alsoto wearing apparel formed in whole or in part of such stiffened fabr1cs.

An object of my invention is to prepare fabrics of any desired degree ofincreased stiifness and in a simple and expeditious manner. A furtherobject of my invention is to prepare wearing apparel consisting of 01'containing such stiffened fabric. Other objects of the invention willappear from the following detailed description.

In the making of stiffened fabrics by causing cellulose acetate or otherderivative of cellulose filaments to at least partially coalesce, manyconsiderations enter that are of great importance both from the point ofview of manipulative steps and coalescing agents that may be employed bymanufacturers who would ordinarily engage in such work and also from thepoint of view of the properties of the final product. Thus the use ofvolatile liquids that are active solvents for cellulose acetate, forinstance, at ordinary room temperatures present several difficulties,such as rather high costs, disagreeable and often noxious odor, andinability to control the .degree of coalescence and consequentstiffening to the desired extent, or the areas where stiffening occurs.

I have found that by using volatile liquids that are not active solventsfor cellulose acetate at ordinary temperatures but which attack the sameat elevated temperatures, as an aid to cause coalescence upon theapplication of heat and pressure, many advantageous results areattained. Since these liquids are not active solvents at ordinarytemperatures, the degree of coalescence of the filaments may becontrolled to any extent from slight closing of the interstices of thefabric to complete closing thereof, whereby the stiffness,impermeability and other properties of the material'may be controlled.Moreover, since coalescence takes place only upon application of heatand pressure, by applying heat and pressure only locally, ornamental orother special effects may by produced.

The products formed by my invention may be used for any purpose where astifiened and/or relatively impermeable fabric is desired. An importantapplication of such products is wearing apparel which may be formed inwhole or in part of fabrics or assembly of fabrics made or prepared inaccordance Thus collars or cuffs may be formed entirely of the productof this invention. Alternatively, shirts with this invention.-

may be made wherein the attached collars, neckbands, cuffs, fronts orbosoms are made of such products. Hats or parts of hats may likewise beformed of such material, as may also be the inner or sweat bands ofhats, visors for caps, inner linings for cravats, stiffening materialused in the inner portions of garments such as coats to help retain theshape thereof, etc. The fabrics of this invention may be used for avariety of other purposes, and indeed may be used for any industrial ortechnical purpose where fabric of increased stiffness and/orimpermeability is required.

' An important advantage of this invention is that the fabric orassembly of fabrics employed as starting material may first be cut, sewnor otherwise shaped quite readily, since they have the properties of andmay be handled as ordinary fabrics. After the desired articles, such ascollars, cufls or other wearing apparel or parts thereof are formed,they may then be treated with the volatile liquid with or withoutplasticizers or softening agents that stiffens the c'ellulose acetateafter exposure to elevated temperatures and then subjected to heat andpressure to impart the desired stiffness and/or impermeability. In thismanner the sewing of stiff or impermeable material is avoided. Productsof this invention have any desired degree of stiffness, which isrelatively permanent, so that they may be subjected to repeatedlaundering without substantially losing their stiffness. In this mannerthe use of starch or other extraneous stiffening materials duringlaundering may be avoided.

This invention may be carried out in a large number of ways,particularly as to the nature of the fabric or number of fabricsemployed, pro= vided that cellulose acetate yarns or filaments arepresent in the fabric if a single fabric is used, or in at least one ofthe fabrics if a plu-= rality of fabrics are used.

There should be present in the product treated at least one layer offabric, which either consists wholly of cellulose acetate yarn, or whichis a mixed fabric containing yarn of cellulose acetate alternatingeither in the warp or in the weft or both, in any desired degree ofalternation with yarns of other non-thermoplastic fibres such as cotton,or natural silk. This alternation may be, for instance 1, 2, 3, or morecellulose acetate yarns with l, 2, 3 or more yarns of cotton or othernonthermoplastic fibers. For convenience the warp may be made with suchalternation of cellulose regenerated cellulose, linen, wool acetate yarnand yarn of other fibres, while the weft may consist wholly of celluloseacetate yarn or wholly of yarn of other fibres. However, the weft mayconsist of an alternation of cellulose acetate yarns andnon-thermoplastic yarns of other fibres, in which case, if the fabric ismade in ordinary looms, the alternations will be preferably in two's ormultiples of two's. If desired a fabric may be used in which either theWarp or the weft consists wholly of cellulose acetate yarndegree ofstiffness or impermeability throughout or only locally may be produced.Alternatively, 2, 3, 4 or more of such fabrics may be treated with thevolatile liquid that is a solvent at elevated temperatures and heat andpressure appliedto the whole surface to form a composite fabric that isunited throughout, or only in local areas by application of heat andpressure only at the desired local areas.

In another, and in some cases preferred, method of carrying out theinvention, one or more fabrics consisting wholly of non-thermoplasticyarns, such as cotton, linen, reconstituted cellulose, wool or silk, isassembled with one or 'more fabrics consisting wholly of celluloseacetate yarn or of a mixture of cellulose acetate yarn or filaments andyarn of non-thermoplastic fibres, as above described, may be treated bythis invention, whereby a composite fabric made up of a plurality oflayers may be made. If a product is to be produced wherein all thelayers thereof are united, it is of importance where two or more layersof fabric consisting wholly of non-thermoplastic material is used, thatat least one layer of fabric consisting of or containing celluloseacetate yarn be interposed between such layers of fabric.

As instances of the manner that the various fabrics may be assembled,the following are given. In the case of collars, cuffs, etc. where anexterior of cotton or linen is desired, a layer of fabric consistingwholly of or containing cellulose acetate yarn, as above described, maybe interposed between two layers of fabric consisting of cotton, linen,or other non-thermoplastic fibres. An assembly that is also useful forsuch purposes comprises three layers of fabric consisting wholly of suchnon-thermoplastic yarns, with a layer of fabric consisting of orcontaining cellulose acetate yarn between each of such fabrics.

Where a product is desired having an exterior of fabric made of orcontaining cellulose acetate, this may be done by interposing a layer offabric consisting wholly of non-thermoplastic fibres between two layersof fabric consisting of or containing cellulose acetate filaments, or byforming an assemblyof three layers of fabric containing or consisting ofcellulose acetate yarn with a layer of fabric consisting ofnon-thermoplastic fibres interposed therebetween. In this case thefabric of non-thermoplastic material may be of the desired constructionto impart to the final product such properties as may be required due toits fabric structure.

These arrangements are given only by way of example, it being obviousthat other arrangements with a less or greater number of layers offabric may be employed to obtain any desired effects.

When an assembly of two or more fabrics is used, particularly inconnection with wearing apparel or parts thereof such as collars,cufl's, shirt bosoms, hats, etc., it is advantageous to cut and sew themtogether to the desired form before causing coalescence of the celluloseacetate filaments, since it is much more convenient to manipulate thembefore the desired stiflness and/or impermeability is imparted thereto.

The fabric or assembly of fabrics is, in accordance with the invention,treated with a. volatile liquid that acts on the cellulose acetate atelevated temperatures so as to cause the same to stiffen, but which ispreferably not an active solvent at ordinary temperatures. I prefer touse for this purpose ethyl alcohol (denatured or undenatured) or methylalcohol containing water or mixtures of these, since they are relativelyinexpensive. Ethyl alcohol, containing about 20% of water isparticularly desirable as its vapors are not toxic or disagreeable. Lessadvantageously more or less water may be added to the alcohol. Aqueoussolutions of ethyl alcohol or of methyl alcohol of 55 to particularly ofabout 80%, concentration are very useful for this purpose. Anotherexample of a suitable liquid that may be used is an aqueous solution ofthe mono methyl ether of ethylene glycol containing say about 20% ofwater.

The aqueous alcohol or other liquid may be applied to the fabric orassembly of fabrics in any suitable manner, such as by dipping, sprayingor brushing. A convenient manner of wetting the fabric or assembly is bypadding the same with the liquid. If an assembly of two or more fabricsis treated, both sides of the assembly should be wetted with the liquid,as it is desirable that all of the layers of the fabric present bewetted therewith when heat and pressure is applied.

The so wetted fabric or assembly of fabrics-is then subjected to heatand pressure. This may be done by any suitable device, for instance byhot ironing or by passing between pressure rolls, one or both of whichare heated, or between a heated roller and a heated or cold plate orsurface, or between a heated pressing iron or plate and a cold board orsurface. The heating device may be heated to the desired temperatures,for instance to C. or more and the pressure applied may be any desiredpressure, for instance from 10 to 600 pounds per square inch.

If heated devices that have desired designs, such as stripes, dots,rectangles or other geometric, fioral or other designs, embossed thereonare employed, novel effects are obtained. Since the alcohol and likeliquids are not solvents for the cellulose acetate at ordinarytemperatures, only those portions that come in contact with the embossedportions of the heated device become stiffened and/or united, while theother portions retain the properties of the original fabrics. This localapplication of heat and pressure may be done by manually operated meansif desired.

In order further to illustrate my invention, but without being limitedthereto, the following example is given.

Eminpla-For making fabrics to be used for making any desired articlesthere is employed an assembly of two layers of cotton or linen fabricwith an interposed layer of fabric consisting wholly of or made ofacetone soluble cellulose acetate filaments or a fabric containing bothcellulose acetate yarn andcotton yarn in any of the desiredconstructions as has been described. This assembly is then wetted onboth sides with an aqueous solution of ethyl alcohol (denatured) of 80%concentration. Thereupon the assembly is pressed with a hot iron orcalender to cause the cellulose acetate filaments to coalesce to form astiffening material in which the fabrics are united. By controlling thedegree of heat and pressure and/or selection of the type of fabricsemployed, the degree of stiifness may be controlled. Generally asemi-stiff fabric is formed, which retains its stiffness after repeatedlaundering so that the use of starch or like material is not required.

If collars or cuffs or bosoms or other articles which are to be sewnonto shirts or other articles of apparel are to be formed, it isadvantageous to cut the assembly of fabrics to the desired shape or formand sew it to the shirt or other article prior to the application of theaqueous alcohol and the heat and pressure so that the assembly isstifiened by wetting with the aqueous alcohol and application of heatand pressure only after the shirt or other article is completed.

The fabrics and articles obtained by this, invention may be made more orless stiff as desired by controlling the amount of cellulose acetateyarns or filaments in the assembly of fabrics being treated; the morecellulose acetate present;-

the stifier the resultant products. The fabrics or other articles may berendered softer bythe incorporation of plasticizers, such as diethylphthalate, dimethyl phthalate, dibutyl tartrate, etc., in the aqueousalcohol or onto or in the fabrics containing the cellulose acetatefilaments or yarns.

While this invention has been described particularly in connection withyarns or filaments of cellulose acetate, such cellulose acetate yarns orfilaments may be replaced in whole or in part by yarns or filaments ofother derivatives of cellulose such as cellulose formate, cellulosepropionate, cellulose butyrate, or other organic esters of cellulosesuch as methyl cellulose, ethyl cellulose and benzyl cellulose or othercellulose ethers, in which case suitable liquids having the requiredproperties for aiding coalescence under heat and pressure will beselected.

It is to be understood that the foregoing detailed description is givenmerely by way of illustration and many variations may-be made thereinwithout departing from the spirit of my invention.

Having described my invention, what I desire to secure by Letters Patentis:

1. In the method of making collars, cuffs and other parts of wearingapparel, the steps which comprise shaping and sewing together aplurality of fabrics, at least one of which contains yarns or filamentsof a derivative of cellulose and the other of which consists wholly ofnon-thermoplastic yarns or filaments, and applying heat and pressure atleast locally to the assembly in the presence of a latent solventselected from the roup consisting of aqueous ethyl alcohol, aqueousmethyl alcohol and an aqueous solution of mono methyl ether of ethyleneglycol, whereby a lamination and stiffening of the fabrics are effected.

2. In the method of making collars, ends and other parts of wearingapparel, the steps which comprise shaping and sewing together aplurality of fabrics, at least one of which contains yarns or filamentsof cellulose acetate and the other of which consists wholly ofnon-thermoplastic yarns or filaments, and applying heat and pressure atleast locally to the assembly in the presence of a latent solventselected from the group consisting of aqueous ethyl alcohol, aqueousmethyl alcohol and an aqueous solution of mono methyl ether or ethyleneglycol, whereby a lamination and stiffening of the fabrics are effected.

3. In the method of making collars, culls and other parts of wearingapparel, the steps which comprise forming an assembly of two cotton orlinen fabrics with an intermediate layer of fabric.

linen fabrics with an intermediate layer of fabric 1 comprisingcellulose acetate yarns or filaments, which assembly is cut and sewn tothe shape of the article being made, and applying heat and pressure atleast locally to the assembly in the presence of a latent solventselected from the group consisting of aqueous ethyl alcohol, aqueousmethyl alcohol and an aqueous solution of mono methyl ether of ethyleneglycol, whereby a lamination and stifiening of the fabrics are effected.

5. In the method of making collars, cuffs and other parts of wearingapparel, the steps which comprise shaping and sewing together aplurality of fabrics, at least one of which contains yarns or filamentsof a derivative of cellulose and the other of which consists wholly ofnon-thermoplastic yarns or filaments, and applying heat and pressure atleast locally to the assembly in the presence of a plasticizer for thederivative of cellulose and a latent solvent selected from the groupconsisting of aqueous ethyl alcohol, aqueous methyl alcohol and an anaqueous solution of mono methyl ether of ethylene glycol, whereby alamination and stiffening of the fabrics are effected.

6. In the method of making collars, cuffs and other parts of wearingapparel, the steps which comprise shaping and sewing together aplurality of fabrics, at least one of which contains yarns or filamentsof cellulose acetate and the other of which consists wholly ofnon-thermoplastic yarns or filaments, and applying heat and pressure atleast locally to the assembly in the presence of a plasticizer for thecellulose acetate and a latent solvent selected from the groupconsisting of aqueous ethyl alcohol, aqueous methyl alcohol and anaqueous solution of mono methyl ether of ethylene glycol, whereby alamination and stiflening of the fabrics are eifected.

GEORGE SCHNEEEB.

